Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 has barely begun, and already we have one of those fashion moments that feels destined to be remembered.
Last night, beneath the Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello presented Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 — a collection that marked his tenth anniversary at the house and, according to widespread speculation surrounding the show, may also have been his final collection for Saint Laurent.
And if this was a farewell, Vaccarello certainly understood the assignment.
Saint Laurent Goes for Gold
The entire show was immersed in gold. Models walked past the illuminated Eiffel Tower wearing shimmering gold dresses, fluid gowns, textured tailoring, brocade skirts, sharp-shouldered jackets and dramatic coats. The palette moved between bright, almost molten gold and deeper antique tones, giving the collection a distinctly decadent quality.
The choice of color was particularly meaningful. The Saint Laurent show notes referenced Yves Saint Laurent's own fascination with gold — a color he famously considered magical — turning the collection into something that felt less like simply another season and more like a conversation with the history of the house.
Ten Years of Anthony Vaccarello
Vaccarello joined Saint Laurent in 2016, and this Spring/Summer 2027 collection arrived almost exactly a decade after his debut. Over those ten years, his Saint Laurent became synonymous with a particular kind of sensuality: razor-sharp tailoring, barely-there dresses, powerful shoulders, elongated silhouettes and an unapologetically glamorous attitude.
For this collection, those signatures were still there — but amplified.
The eveningwear was particularly spectacular, with shimmering dresses and sweeping black gowns bringing the show toward its dramatic finale. Charlotte Gainsbourg then performed as part of the closing moments, adding another deeply Parisian layer to an already cinematic evening.
The Scenography: When the Set Becomes Part of the Collection
With Anthony Vaccarello, the Saint Laurent show is never simply about the clothes. The scenography has become part of the language of his presentations — and for Spring/Summer 2027, it was particularly spectacular.
Set beneath the Eiffel Tower at the Trocadéro, the glossy black runway was illuminated by three enormous, candlelit chandeliers suspended above it. Their dramatic, tiered silhouettes echoed the geometry of the Eiffel Tower itself — almost like sculptural skirts floating in the night sky — while the tower glowed gold behind them. The installation also referenced the grand ballroom of the InterContinental Paris Le Grand, where Yves Saint Laurent presented his couture collections for decades, creating another deliberate connection between Vaccarello and the history of the house.
It was exactly the kind of cinematic, architectural staging that has become a Vaccarello signature: the location, light, music and set working together to create a world before the first look even arrives.
A Golden Goodbye?
That is the question everyone is asking. There has been considerable speculation that this could be Vaccarello's final Saint Laurent collection, but no official departure announcement has been confirmed. For now, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode continues to list him as the house's artistic director.
Whether this was a goodbye or simply an extraordinary tenth-anniversary celebration, the symbolism was difficult to miss. Gold. Paris. The Eiffel Tower. Yves Saint Laurent's legacy. Ten years of Vaccarello.
And a collection that ended in black, music and applause.
Not a bad way to close a chapter — if, indeed, this is the end of one.
Follow the rest of my Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 coverage here on Theriz Journal — and subscribe to the newsletter for my fashion week edits, runway highlights and the collections I'm still thinking about after the final walk.
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